 KARANGASEM
REGENCY
During the 18th centuries, Karangasem was the most powerful kingdom
in Bali but in the middle of the last century, it became a vassal
of Lombok. Covering 861 sq. km, Karangasem regency is well known
for its breath taking landscapes which have been formed by lava
flows from Gunung Agung, the sacred mountain of Bali.
Beautiful terraced paddy fields lie at the lower southeastern slopes
of the regency while coffee and clove plantations are found higher
up. Salt panning and fishing are the major economic activities in
the coastal areas.
Standing 3,142 meters high, Gunung Agung made disaster news on
17th March, 1963 when its crater exploded, spewing rivers of Java
and hot volcanic mud down its slopes and into the sea. Ash rained
over the whole island, and lava streams covering roads isolated
its eastern end. Large areas of crops and many villages and temples
were wiped out.
Thousands of people were either burned to death or suffocated by
the searing clouds of hot gas rushing down the volcanic slopes.
The villages of Sorga and Lebih, situated high on the slopes of
Agung, were totally destroyed. As if by a miracle, Besakih, just
six kilometers from the crater, suffered little damage. Nowadays,
Mount Agung is quiet and the mother temple Pura Besakih perched
1000 meters up the slope attracts a steady stream of devotees and
tourists.
Pura besakih is Bali's most important and probably best kept temple,
consisting of about 30 separate temples in seven terraces that ascend
up the hill. Every district in Bali has its own shrine or temple
at Besakih and besides honoring Ida Sang Hyang Widi ( God Almighty
), all Balinese gods and goddesses are also honored.
If you want to climb Mount Agung, you must request permission from
the temple authorities, as no one should stand higher than the temple
when a ceremony is being held.
You can ascend the mountain from behind the temple or through the
village of Sebudi village, near Selat. It's tough 6-8 hour climb
and you are recommended to leave in the early morning and hire a
guide.
Padang Bai is the port for the ferry service to Lombok. It's a
sleepy fishing village situated in a perfectly sheltered bay. The
beach is picturesque and quaint with a long sweep of sand where
colorful boats are drawn up on the beach.
From Padang Bai the road follows a beautiful stretch inland and
turns off at the mountain village of Tenganan. Tenganan is a Bali
Aga village - one of the few Balinese communities to resist the
Majapahit invasion of 1343.
It is walled village consisting of two rows of identical houses.
This is the only place in Indonesia where double weaving ikat, Geringsing,
is produced. The village is also famous for its lontar sacred books,
traditional Balinese palm leaf books.
One of coastal road 13 kilometers from Tenganan is the once quiet
fishing village of Candi dasa. you can expect to find plenty of
accommodation, restaurants, bars, souvenir shops, and some nightlife.
There are fantastic views from the headland and on a clear day Agung
Mountain rises magnificently behind the range of coastal hills.
The main town and capital of the Karangasem district is Amlapura.
Puri Agung Karangasem palace is an imposing reminder of the time
Karangasem was a kingdom. It has a three-tiered gate and beautiful
sculptured panels on the outside.
Six kilometers from Amlapura you will find the tirtaganga wate
palace. This palace, built around 1947 by Amlapura's water loving
king, is a place of beauty and solitude. The palace contains a network
of pools and a swimming pool fed by a natural spring, surrounded
by some of the most beautiful rice terraces in Bali.
North of Tirtagangga is Tulamben. SS Liberty, the American war
ship sunk by the Japanese in 1942, lies just off the beach and is
anywhere on this barren coast, but worth a pause on your travels.
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