 JEMBRANA
REGENCY
The least populated area of Bali, Jembrana was
home of the now extinct Bali tiger. Despite having only basic tourist
facilities, many attractions make Jembrana worth visiting. The main
population areas are scattered along the southwestern coastal road.
By road, Jembrana can be reached from Singaraja in the north and
Denpasar in the southeast through Tabanan.
Enjoying a strategic location at the southwestern
coast of Bali, Jembrana regency is the landing points for travelers
by sea from Java island. Regular ferry services link the ports of
Gilimanuk in Jembrana and Ketapang in Java. Opened in the 1970's,
the ferry terminals have been upgraded to cope with the higher volume
of traffic. from Gilimanuk a road leads northward to Buleleng through
scenic clove and vanilla plantations.
Jembrana's population is multi religious. both
mosques and Hindu temples can be found here. The towns of Belimbingsari
and Palasari boast of the biggest Protestant and Catholic communities
in Bali respectively. Palasari's Catholic church is arguably the
most beautiful in eastern Indonesia.
The topography of the regency is as varied as its
cultures. The northern half of Jembrana consist of mountains, and
forms part of west Bali National Park. In the south, there are 71
kilometers of beaches. of volcanic origins, the sands on the coastline
are black, but there are also some beautiful white coral beaches,
especially at Medewi and some most beautiful mangrove forests. Southern
Jembrana also has some of the most beautiful rice terraces on the
island.
Mekepung and Perancak
The most exciting event in Jembrana is the traditional
buffalo race. The regency even calls itself "the land of the
Mekepung". Usually held between August and October, the Mekepung
was originally held as part of the harvest festivities. The carts
and buffaloes were, until quite recently, still used for transportation.
The Mekepung consists of a race between two kilometer course. These
days, championship events are organized under the sponsorship of
the local government, which uses the race to help promote tourism.
In Perancak, a race can be arranged to order. If
you like, you can be your own jockey. There is a small temple of
white stones to commemorate the landing of sang Hyang Nirartha.
A crocodile farm commemorates the now extinct Perancak crocodile.
There is also a zoo which displays crocodiles, tigers, jalak putih,
the phoenix bird of paradise and other animals.
At high tide on nearby Perancak river, small traditional
jukung and sampan boats can be seen quietly sailing up the river
towards Loloan, which is a unique Bali village. Inhabited by descendants
of Bugis seafarers who settled here at the end of the 17th century,
Loloan is predominantly Moslem in many ways.
Besides the Mekepung race, there is a cow race
called Magembeng. The name of originates from the gembeng bell the
cows carry around their necks. As they walk, the bell makes a sound
that produces a special kind of music. The Megembeng competition
is not so much about speed as about the elegance and beauty of the
cows.
West Bali National Park
Covering more than 76,000 hectares, West Bali National
Park is situated in two regencies : Jembrana and Buleleng. The entrance
on the Jembrana side of the park is at Melaya on the Denpasar-Gilimanuk
road. Visit this place if you're looking for pristine tropical nature.
The park is the last natural habitat of the endangered jalak putih
- fewer than fifty are believed to be left in the wild, where they
are threatened by poaching. The park is also home to banteng and
the deer like menjangan. The National Park contains a broad range
of natural environments, from mangrove coastal forests to savanna
and rainforest shelters.
To enter the National Park one must first go to
the park office in Cekik. Accommodation is available in basic huts
but you must bring your own bedding and utensils. Experienced guides
in the office offer excursions for trekking, diving and snorkeling
on the Jembrana side of the National park are not recommended for
beginners.
Gilimanuk Bay
Gilmanuk's beaches are truly pristine, and there
is a wide range of them : coral beaches, white and black underwater
coral awaits anyone willing to dive in and go for a snorkel. There
are two small islands in the bay, which are barely more than sandbars
- Pulau kalong ( Bat Island ) and Pulau Burung ( Bird Island ).
There is also a museum containing pre-Hindu archeology. The villages
around Gilimanuk contain a mixture of Balinese, Javanese, Madurese
and Bugis architecture unique to Bali. No less beautiful are the
various boats belonging to these ethnic groups.
Further south, at Candikusuma, there are two temples
dedicated to the legendary figure of Dang Hyang Nirartha Indra Kusuma
temple and Taman Sumur Bulus. Locals are how in 1897 two Dutch officers
were attracted to the place when they saw a light coming from the
earth. It turned out to be a kris ( a supernatural dagger ). Candikusuma
beach is known for its beautiful black sand and the gentle hills
permeating the beach.
Inland from Melaya are the parallel Christian communities
of Palasari ( Catholic ) and Blimbingsari ( Protestant ), built
at the beginning of the century in a settlement area for Balinese
who had converted to Christianity. Hills and paddy fields surround
the villages. Their uniqueness, however, lies in the cultural cocktail
present in churches, which mix both Gothic and Balinese architectural
styles.
Delodbrawah Beach is a black sand beach, which
used to be a swamp ( brawah , believed to be a favorite crocodile
haunt. Believe it or not, the sand from this beach is said to cure
rheumatism. To the north of the beach is mendoyo in Negara. One
of the best racing grounds for the Mekepung here is found here -
it can even be used in the rainy season.
Rambutsiwi Temple is on a cliff top overlooking
a breathtaking panorama of paddy fields on one side and the black
sandy beach on the other. Stairs allow people to get safely down
onto the beach. Two caves overlook the sea, boats and seabirds hovering
above. This spot is a favorite hangout for painters. The temple
itself was built by Dang Hyang Nirartha. According to the legend,
he made a gift of his hair to the temple. Hence the name Rambut
Siwi, which literally means"Hair worship".
Medewi beach is a small resort in the southeast
of Jembrana ( about midway between Gilimanuk and Denpasar ), just
off the main road at Airsatang. Waves from three to seven meters
in height make for perfect surfing. Small black stones are scattered
over the black sandy beach, providing an unusual scene at sunset.
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