 GIANYAR
REGENCY
The second most populated region of Bali, Gianyar is the cultural
heart of the island. The highland town of Ubud, in particular, has
acquired a reputation as a center of art after several foreign artists
settled there in the 1920's and 30's. Geographically, the region
is quite diverse. While clove, coffee and vanilla are grown in the
highlands, paddy is the most common crop on the lowlands. The old
harbors of Ketewel and Kramas are fishing villages.
Travelling by road from Denpasar to Ubud, the first village one
reaches is Batubulan, which is famous for its stone carvings. Actually,
most of the stone sculptures you see around Bali are almost certainly
made in Batubulan.
These works are displayed all along the main road. The popular
door-guardian statues of volcanic tuff, once exclusively use in
the temples and palaces, are now exported overseas. Another specialty
of Batubulan is the Barong dance which is performed daily here.
The dance symbolizes the never-ending battle between good and evil.
The Pura Puseh Batubulan, a beautiful temple, is also worth visiting
while in Batubulan.
Just after Batubulan, Celuk and nearby Singapadu are the centers
for Balinese goldsmiths and silversmiths. More than 40 jewelry workshops
are located along the road from Batubulan to Celuk. The jewelry
is exported world wide. Singapadu is also well known for Topeng
and Barong mask making.
After Celuk, the main road heads to Sukawati, famous for its art
market (pasar seni) and dalangs (puppeteers). Set in a two floor
building, the market sells everything from statues to dance customers,
all at reasonable prices. At night when the art market is closed,
a night market provides a good selection of Indonesian food. Sukawati
village is also a center for the manufacture of wind chimes. The
puppeteers of Sukawati are in much demand all over the island. they
often travel to perform at ceremonial occasions, and are said to
have inherited their skills passed down from one generation to another.
Further along the road towards Ubud is the village of Mas. Famous
for woodcarving, Mas offers a myriad of wooden items. The main road
of the town is lined with dozens of workshop. Mas is also of historical
significance to Bali's history as it was here that the great priest
Nirartha had his hermitage in the Pura Taman Pule.
After Mas, you enter the area of Ubud, often regarded as the cultural
heart of Bali. "Ubud" is drived from the word "ubad"
which means medicine as the town supplied medicinal herbs during
olden days. A former principality, Ubud has several palaces and
brahmin mansions, as well as beautiful houses built in the Gianyar
architectural style. The modern Balinese art movement began here
(see article titled "Paintings"), when artist first began
to abandon purely religious and court scenes for scenes of everyday
life. ubud is home to many respected local and western artists.
the cultural image of Ubud is paramount to the people as home to
the best art museums in the country. The Puri Lukisan, a Museum
of Fine Arts established in the 50's, displays art from the 30's
and 50's, as well as fine examples of modern Balinese art.
The Neka Museum has a diverse and interesting collection of mainly
modern art. it also includes an excellent and varied display of
work by western artists who have resided in Ubud through the years.
ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum Art) at Jl. Pengosekan should not be missed
as it contains pieces by established artists.
Ubud is in ideal place to see Balinese dance. Legong, Ramayana,
Baris, Kecak, and the Fire Dance, are performed nightly in or around
the Ubud area.
Ubud gives you the opportunity to see the real Bali. It is a place
for leisurely strolls through rice terraces, lush forests, breath
taking gorges, and deserted swimming holes, all within walking distance
from the center of Ubud. You must visit the Monkey Forest - walk
along Monkey Forest Road from Ubud, down into a dense forest where
you will find a bunch of happy monkeys waiting for passing tourists.
A word of warning : the monkeys are happy but just a little naughty,
so hold on to your cameras.
Ubud market has kept much of its traditional charm, with squatting
Balinese sellers haggling loudly among spices and vegetables. The
market also sells handicrafts, many made in neighboring villages
of Pengosekan, Tegalalang, Payangan and Peliatan.
Gianyar has some of the most important archeological sites on on
the island. The majority is located in the Pejeng area, four kilometers
from Ubud,. It is home to one of South East Asia's oldest artifacts,
a huge kettledrum known as the "Moon of Pejeng", a relic
from the Bronze Age originating from Dongson, Vietnam, and a nearby
archeological museum. The village also has two ancient temples,
the Pura Pusering Jagat and Pura Kebo Edan.
The road to Pejeng and Gianyar is the site of the Goa gajah. The
"elephant cave" is carved into the rock face and reached
by a flight of steps. It probably dates back to the 9-12th centuries
and shows elements of both Hindu and Buddhist use. You can enter
the cave through the huge mouth of a demon. In front of the cave
are to bathing pools with spring water gushing from spouts held
by female figures.
A kilometer from Goa Gajah is Yeh Pulu. After a short walk through
rice terrace, you will arrive at an ancient rock carving dating
from the 14th century. The carving depicts various scenes of everyday
life and the figures of elephant headed Ganesh indicate a close
relationship between the two sites.
still within the district of Gianyar in the central mountains across
from Trunyan is the small settlement of Tampak Siring, with its
popular natural springs. The springs bubble out and are captured
in bathing pools.
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