 DENPASAR
During the days of sailing ships during the last century, the importance
of a port depended on its access to the sea-faring routes and its
control of the trade in opium, weapons and manufactured products.
Denpasar enjoyed these advantages tremendously. Located in the center
of the southern rice fields, it was linked to the ports of Kuta
in the west and Sanur and Benoa in the east. Slowly, the power of
Denpasar grew. The power of Denpasar princes reached its Golden
Age at the end of the last century when they defeated the kingdom
of Mengwi with the help of Tabanan.
The arrival of the Dutch in the early 20th century, however, put
an end to Balinese self-rule. However, rebellion broke out in 1906
with thousand of courageous Balinese warriors putting up a bloody
"puputan" fight against the Dutch colonialists. As it
was a battle of rifles against the kris (short daggers), the Dutch
ruthlessly massacred the Balinese. Today, at the site of the tragedy
at Puputan Square in Badung stands a monument in honour of the Balinese
nobles who died.
After the war, Denpasar continued to grow under Dutch rule, thanks
to its strategic location.
Roads were constructed and Benoa harbor and an airport were built.
These facilities made Denpasar the nucleus of the island's communications
system and it grew to become the most populated part of the island.
from a population of just 15,000 sixty years ago, it has expanded
dramatically to 400,000, plus another 100,000 who are residents
of Kuta and Nusa Dua. Following the expansion of Ngurah Rai Airport,
Denpasar became the Balinese capital in 1958.
The most interesting feature of Denpasar is its combination of
tradition with modernity. The old provincial kingdoms and villages
of the densely populated rice plain also perforate the urban landscape.
While functioning very much in the traditional way, these, "villages
in the city" still have their exclusive banjar neighborhood,
dance groups, and temple festivals. These days, residents often
make a living by renting rooms to newcomers from other regions of
Bali and Indonesia.
This blending of styles has sometimes resulted in a stunning cohabitation
of architectural genres. Hidden behind the harsh rows of Chinese
shops along Jalan Gajah Mada in the old city centre are traditional
compound with much of their original architecture preserved, kori
gates and temples. These features give this city a historical look
rarely found in other Indonesian cities. But with no heritage conservation
policy at present, there is a strong possibility that much of the
ancient architecture may soon find itself replaced by contemporary
concrete structures.
A consequence of the city's rapid growth has been its sprawling
nature. Since the road networks are not concentrated at the original
urban centre, urbanization tends to follow the main roads out of
the city to housing projects 20 km away, leaving large expanses
of rice-growing areas untouched in the middle of the city.
Scarcity of land has also created some architectural anomalies.
City residents, no longer with enough room to build the complete
set of buildings found in a traditional Balinese compound, have
to make do with less. Some build smaller shrines from which they
address the ancestors of their home villages, while others build
shrines on the second or third floors. The intention is to retain,
al least outwardly, the Balinese architecture. For want of a real
Balinese house, many will make do with Balinese decorative roofs
or carved panel illustrating the epics myths of Ramayana and Mahabharata.
The result is unusual, but has a charm of its own.
Bali merges with Indonesia in Denpasar. The capital hosts all government
administration offices as well as most universities and higher learning
institutions, home to about 25,000 students. The local economy is
geared to the needs of the nearby resort of Sanur, Kuta and Nusa
Dua where many residents commute to daily. The dynamism of the local
economy has brought not only Balinese from other parts of the island,
but newcomers from all over the country to Denpasar as investors,
managers, even laborers. In Denpasar, ethnic homogeneity is a thing
of the past.
Non-Balinese now make up around 30 % of the city population. These
are severalJavanese Kampung, Chinese and Arab / Punjabi areas. On
the whole, except in the "old villages of the city" which
are solely Balinese, the population is very mixed. The muslim call
to prayer, the rumble of the baleganjur orchestra and the persons
sermon represent just some of the sounds in the Denpasar day. This
variety has important cultural consequences. The Indonesian language
is increasingly taking over from Balinese in daily communication.
Denpasar is where the Balinese scholars translate Indian holy books,
new prayers are taught, and Hinduism reinterpreted. It is also home
to a new cosmopolitan class of Western-oriented Balinese yuppies.
The contradictions are immense there.
Denpasar is not an easy place to visit. To see the old city, take
a drive around the old villages of Kedaton, Sumerta, Tonja and especially
Kesiman, whose brick-style shrines and gates are the simplest yet
most beautiful in Bali. The Maospahit temple on the road to Tabanan
dates back to the 14th century, another marvel of brick architecture.
Other beautiful monuments include the temple and palace of Kesiman,
Penambangan temple (near Pemecutan palace), and Satria temple, with
its nearby bird market. Pemecutan, Kesiman and Badung (now the name
of the nearby regency) were the three "united kingdoms"
on the teritory of Denpasar.
Representing the modern tradition is Pura Jagatnatha, located in
the heart of the city. It was built in the 70's to be the "territorial
temple" of Denpasar, an open monument to modern Balinese Hinduism.
Its main padmasana shrine, or seat of the "Supreme Siwa",
embodies the new importance given to the concept of the One God
in Balinese religion.
A visit to Bali Museum, located right next to Jagatnatha temple,
is a must. It has the finest collections of Balinese antiquities.
Of particular interest is the stylistic simplicity of the item in
its 30's collection.
The overly decorative Baroque style of Balinese art is clearly
a recent historical import.
Denpasar is also where Bali displays its modern image. The Taman
Budaya, the Arts Centre to the east of the city, is a complex dedicated
to the preservation of Balinese culture. It contains the gigantic
Ksirarnawa amphitheater and a museum with an important collection
of paintings and sculptures from the period of Balinese renewal,
but no contemporary art.
As a modern metropolis, Denpasar offers a range of shopping centers,
restaurant and food centers. For those interested in textile and
handicraft, go to Pasar Badung and Pasar Kumbasari markets, located
on either side of the Badung river in the old city center. The new
center has moved south to the Sudirman and Diponegoro roads, Matahari,
Ramayana, Tiara Dewata and Libi Department Stores, as well as Sudirman
Mall, cater to all the need of tourist and local customers, all
at fixed prices. And for food, the south of Denpasar, Jalan Teuku
Umar offers a complete range of restaurants.
Sanur
Administratively, Sanur is included in the city of Denpasar. But
with white sand, coconut trees, and some of the best international
hotels on the whole island just a few meters away, Sanur was Bali's
first beach resort. Only a few hundred meters inland, it is a village
traditionally run by the Brahmins-the priestly caste of Bali.
The Sanur area, the beach front of Denpasar now extending from
Sanur westwards to the Suwung marshes and Serangan island, is steeped
in history.
The Blanjong, written in Sanskrit in 913, is the oldest inscription
of its kind in Bali. It tells of the founding of Buddhist monastery.
Other traces of contact with the outside world persist to this day.
The villages of Renon, on the rod to Denpasar, and Semawang, near
Sanur Beach hotel, still host a Baris Cina dance, with warrior wearing
Portuguese-like 16th century helmets, perhaps the sign of early
European contact.
Sanur was for centuries an important trading place. Nearby Serangan
island has a Moslem community of Bugis fishermen, who have descendants
from the famous seafaring traders of old. But it is best known for
the inland Brahmins. communities of Taman and Anggarkasih inside
elaborately gated compounds, who are believed to use magic. These
people were also staunchly independent, and when the Dutch landed
in 1906 on their way to Denpasar, they allowed the troops to pass
by peacefully, having a grudge against their own ruler, thus avoiding
the "Puputan" tragedy.
Tourism in Sanur began in the 1930's. Expatriates, writers and
other luminaries had beach bungalows there. After independence,
the Dutch painter Le Mayeur lived there and gained fame for his
affair with and marriage to Ni Polok, one of the best dancers of
his day. Le Mayeur's impressionistic work. while heavily damaged,
can be seen at Le Mayeur Museum near Grand Bali Beach hotel.
Donald Friend, one of Australia's great artists, also lived in
Sanur until the 60's. Sanur was where the Indonesian government
made its first attempt at mass tourism : the construction of the
Bali Beach bunker, built using Japanese war reparations. The hotel
burned down in 1993, but has now been restored even grander than
before with the addition of a Bali-style roof. The Hyatt, built
in the 70's, is famous for its garden and lobby, built like a huge
traditional Balinese wantilan.
The charm of Sanur lies in the relative tranquility of its social
scene. It is a resort for families or visitors wanting the right
mix of beach and Balinese life. It also has the immense advantage
of being much nearer inland tourist spots just half an hour from
Ubud. Another advantage of Sanur compared with Kuta is its quieter
beaches, making it a favorite walking place.
The main road passes inland, not along the beach varies from black
sand in Padang Galak to white sand in the stretch from Grand Bali
Beach to Semawang. Further west, the coast turns to swamp prior
to Suwung village, the location of a small pier for travel to Serangan
island. This island is currently developing into a popular resort
area.
It has several attractions for tourists, most famous being the
Pura Sakenan temple, built in the coral-stone architecture of the
coast. The temple comes to life on Kuningan day, when thousands
of worshippers cross the narrow straits to pay their respects to
Empu Kuturan, 10th century reformer of Balinese Hinduism.
There is also a turtle hatchery on the island. Turtle meat used
to be a favorite Balinese delicacy. But in the 60's and 70's turtle-shell
became a favorite material for making jewelry and boxes, and the
tortoises all but disappeared, hence the hatchery. But the local
Bugis fishermen have lost their main livelihood, now living the
travel as far as Eastern Indonesia and the Timor Sea to catch fish
and sea shells.
The Treasures of Denpasar
the capital of Bali is often considered a sprawling and noisy city
that has attracted thousands of inhabitants from the rest of the
island. It is also the first stop-over point for any visitor to
Bali.
Arriving at Ngurah Rai Airport, one is struck immediately by the
warmth of the hosts. The city is indeed filled with treasures from
its rich and colorful past. The airport itself is named after a
freedom fighter, Ngurah Rai, who led a small band of soldiers towards
the end of 1946, in the struggle against the colonial rulers of
that time, the Dutch. All 94 soldiers led by Ngurah Rai were slaughtered,
now remembered by a monument near the airport. The site where the
fight took place is now called Margarana. The 20th November is designated
"Margarana Heroes' Day" and celebrated with parades and
other public ceremonies.
The center of life in the city revolves around Puputan Square.
In the center of the square is a bronze memorial for those who lost
their lives in the one-sided struggle with the Dutch. At one corner
of the square stands a 5-metre stone statue dedicated to the "Great
Teacher" - Shiva. What makes this unusual is that the face
to the east is Indra (Iswara), to the south it is Brahma, to the
north Vishnu, and to the west Mahadewa. Also within the square is
the contemporary looking Pura Jagatnatha, the "Temple of the
Lord of the World". Within it is an ornate statue of the Supreme
God, Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa.
The nearby Bali Museum was established in1932. Archaeological finds,
dance masks, handicraft, paintings, as well as architectural illustrations
of the various Balinese temples, provide an unrivaled exhibition
of the culture.
Go to the three story Central Market in the early morning, when
it is a hive of activity. The whole of the first floor is devoted
to meat and fish, dairy products, as well as flowers. If looking
for spices, head for the second floor. Handicrafts are on the third.
There are several other markets well worth visiting in the capital
city, including the Kumbasari, just across from the Central Market.
For souvenir hunters, two streets, Jalan Gajah Mada and Jalan Thamrin,
have all you will need to remember your trip to Bali. Specialty
and Art shops abound here and all over in Denpasar. Visit the Bird
Market (Pasar Burung) for a closer look at several fine feathered
creatures, as well as cats, dogs, snakes and fish.
The night market (pasar malam) usually starts in late afternoon
and is a favorite for eating in a relaxed atmosphere as you watch
the world go by. Make your way towards Sanur and you will find the
Niti Mandala Civic Centre, home to several government offices, including
the Bali Government Tourist Office. Interesting to note is the architectural
style used in constructing the buildings, adapting age-old Balinese
designs to the modern era.
Finally, some other interesting places to visit in Sanur are the
Art Market (Pasar Seni) and the Beach market. Halfway between Denpasar
and Sanur is the handicraft centre Sanggraha Kriya Asti.
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