 BULELENG
REGENCY
Spread across the northern strip of Bali, the regency of Buleleng
is flanked by the Sea of Bali on the north, Karangasem on the east
and separated from the southern regencies of Jembrana, Tabanan,
Badung and Bangli by grand volcanic mountains.
Pretty much isolated from the rest of Bali, Buleleng has developed
distinct social and cultural features and continues to attract increasing
numbers of tourist each year with its breathtaking natural scenery
and unique history.
Buleleng was the first region to be colonized by the Dutch in 1849.
From there on, the Dutch conquered the rest of the island, with
the many buildings characterizing Dutch architecture. also taking
the lead in the cultural realm, the influence of the performing
arts in Buleleng can be seen in the southern parts of Bali.
Once Bali's major port, Buleleng traded with Indian merchants some
2000 years back as evidenced by the discovery of ancient beads in
Pacung, 40 km east of Singaraja. The finding, in fact, was the first
sign of Indian trade with the Indonesian archipelago. Small stupa
effigies unearthed in Lovina also point to a presence by Buddhist
monks in the 6th century, who later traveled south, where their
culture blossomed 200 years later. These discoveries bear witness
to the role of the nearly sea routes in the history of Buleleng.
In the central part of Buleleng lies the city of Singaraja (100,000
inhabitants), which was the capital of Bali during Dutch times.
Today it is a mix of Muslim kampung, Chinese shops, tree-lined avenues
of colonial houses and neo-Balinese government offices. A Chinese
temple (kelenteng) stand near the harbor, not far from Kajanan mosque,
whose mirhab pulpit has an interesting combination of Moslem and
Balinese decorative motifs. The Balinese elements of the city appear
pushed to the periphery of the city while traditional traders (the
Bugis and the Chinese) occupy its center. Visit Gedung Kertya library,
where there are thousands of lontar manuscripts in the Javanese
and Balinese scripts. You can also buy prasi paintings, done in
the ancient fashion on lontar palm leaves.
A further 10 km south of Singaraja will lead you to Gitgit Waterfall,
Bali's highest waterfall, where the inviting cool waters of the
river below are worth a dip into. Tourist looking for a quite beach
resort can head 10 km west from Singaraja to Lovina, along stretch
of beach (with hotels and bungalows). The black sand beach is safe
and a perfect place for swimming and snorkeling. Lovina also offers
dolphin viewing. It is the perfect base from which to explore northern
Bali.
West from Lovina, the coastal road passes trough the small towns
of Banjar and Seririt. Banjar is home to to the only Buddhist monastery
on Bali. The monastery, a blend of Balinese and mainland south-east
Asian architecture, offers a stunning panorama down to the sea.
Banjar also offers hot springs popular with both locals and tourist.
Up the road, diving from the dry coastal area to increasingly lush
landscapes, you will arrive at the small village of Pedawa, with
unique shrines made from bamboo.
From Seririt, a highway braches inland and southwards across the
most beautiful rice terrances in the island at Busung Biu and Pupuan.
A mayong a mountain road will take you back to the Bedugul Hill
area via Munduk and the Tamblingan and Buyan lakes located in the
midst of rainforest. Munduk is an eco-tourism hill resort with no
less than six waterfalls as well as treks to the pristine Tamblingan
Lake and nearby mountain, rainforest and plantation areas. Visitors
can stay at Bukit Jegeg Cottages, a first class boutique hotel set
amidst lunch vegetation. Packages with cultural performances are
coastal strip past. Seririt narrows westwards, with the main road
winding past Celukan Bawang harbor and Gondol beach (a good place
for swimming and snorkeling) before eventually arriving at Bali's
western tip. After passing a huge rock-face almost to the sea and
the nearby Pulaki temple, you will reach the newly developed Pemuteran
beach resort, with far from Bali's cultural centers.
Pemuteran is an ideal place to plan excursions to West Bali National
Park (Taman Nasional Bali Barat), comprising the nature reserve
of Menjangan Island and the uplands in the west. Menjangan has the
most beautiful coral reefs in Bali. Along with the nearby Labuan
Lalang, this is a wonderful place for diving and snorkeling. Basic
accommodation is available at Labuan Lalang, but you are forbidden
to spend the night on this unique island.
Taman Sari Bali Cottages, near Pemuteran village and at the foot
of the Pulaki Mountain, should be the first choice of accommodation
for visitors. Designed to be a place for spirituals uplifting, the
resort is in total harmony with its natural surroundings. Visits
to temples, jungle trekking, snorkeling and diving excursions can
be arranged for its guests.
To organize treks to the island section of the park, you need to
go southeast to Cekik, near Gilimanuk, where the West Bali Park
office is to be found.
In eastern Buleleng you will find something completely different.
East of Singaraja is the scenic Sawan rice plain, producing Bali's
best rice. the area around here has a unique baroque temple architecture
best known for relief's dating from colonial times. In Sangsit,
where boats still shuttle to the Kangean islands to the north, don't
miss the Beji temple. Its gates and shrines are finely carved with
serpents, Garudas, demon heads and floral decorations. The inland
town of Sawan is traditional center for dance and music. It has
simple accommodation and river views rivaling those in southern
Bali. One of the few remaining gamelan makers on Bali has its workshop
there.
From Sawan, a narrow road heads south towards Bedugul through
coffee and clove plantations and mountain landscapes. When you are
returning to the coastal road, stop at Pura Meduwe Karang temple
in Kubutambahan on the northern coast. The carvers here, besides
making sculptures of classical heroes, have also integrated the
Dutch presence in their relief's. The most famous shows a Dutchman
riding a bicycle with wheels made of flowers. This is said to represent
Nieuwenkampf, a Dutch artist who first explored Bali at the beginning
of the century. He traveled around the island by bike, stopping
to sketches of the temples and religious events he witnessed.
Further east, the coastal villages of Julah and Pujung, and the
nearby mountain village of Sembiran, are three Bali Aga villages
with their own versions of the Balinese language. The road that
climbs to Sembiran offers a fantastic view over the palm trees of
the coastal plain.
At the eastern end of Buleleng regency is the village of Tejakula,
which has preserved an original dance tradition, with Baris Gede
(warrior dances) and the famous Wayang Wong, which is performed
during the Galungan festival. The road then heads eastwards into
savaged by the 1963 eruption of mount Agung.
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